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| Chassis/Suspension and Tires Questions about things that effect your handling. |
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#1
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Post up your suggestions for winterizing your pride and joy, so that when spring finally gets here it operates just like it is supposed to.
1. Fuel tank full? 2. Tires inflated. 3. Engine oil changed. 4. All pivoting points lubricated. 5. Batter Tender hooked up.
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#2
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tires are supposed to be off the ground.
Stabil added to fuel
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''The man hunched over his motorcycle can focus only on the present instant of his flight; he is caught in a fragment of time cut off from both the past and the future; he is wrenched from the continuity of time ... in other words, he is in a state of ecstasy; in that state he is unaware of his age, his wife, his children, his worries, and so he has no fear, because the source of fear is in the future, and a person freed of the future has nothing to fear.'' www.myspace.com/midmoriders |
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#3
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I really don't winterize because there is always a day or two in each month that I can get the bike out and ride. I do put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank only because it might take me a month or so in the winter to go through a tank of gas.
If you use fuel stabilizer, and have ethanol gas in the tank, get a fuel stabilizer that is made for E10 gas. I use Sta-Bil Marine Formula.
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1976 BMW R75/6 1976 Honda CB400F Supersport |
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#4
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Fill fuel tank as full as you can get it - this prevents condensation inside the tank due to temperature changes. Excessive condensation = water in fuel and rusty fuel tanks
Fuel stabilizer is a must. There are many brands (seafoam, stabil, star enzyme, etc). Use one that you like and take in consideration the type of fuel you use (ethanol - ). Carbureated bikes need to treat the fuel and run the bike long enough to get some of that treated fuel in the carbs - don't park it for te winter and then treat the fuel - tha does no good. Come spring time, dump some HEET fuel dryer in to combat any condensation. For those track enthusiasts that run special non-slickery coolant - make sure the coolant can handle the cold temps if the bike will be stored outside or in a non-heated shed/garage. Oil changes?? I prefer to do these in the spring to get rid of any condensation that forms in the crankcase (which it will). For those that feel the need to start the bike once a month to remember what it sounds like - let the bike reach full operating temperature before turning it off. Starting it, revving it a couple times, and turning it off is hard on things. The battery voltage consumed by starting the bike is not replenished (recharged) in just a few short revs. If you do this three months in a row, you'll find yourself with a weak battery that no longer starts the bike. It's also hard on spark plugs, since most bikes run rich on cold startups (more fuel than air). The excess fuel will end up fouling the spark plugs causing them not to fire as well (or at all). Finally, running to normal operating temp will allow the oil to get hot enough to evaporate any condensation buildup - essentially prolonging the life of the oil. This is also the reason more frequent oil changes are recommended for any vehicle that makes frequent short trips - the oil never gets hot enough to get rid of the condesation.
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1979 Yamaha XS650 - new project 1985 Yamaha XJ700 1982 Yamaha XJ650 - SOLD!! 2003 Kawasaki ZX6- R - SOLD!! 1989 Yamaha TW200 (SOLD) |
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#5
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Me too. Only thing I do is keep the tank full of fuel and Sta-bil and keep it on the stands with the tires off the ground. And battey tender hooked up. I like to ride on those odd warm days when I can.
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2005 Honda RC 51
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#6
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I know someone today just suggested changing the oil before AND after to make sure any silly things regarding oil occur... BUT I'm 200 miles away from my standard oil change timeframe.
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#7
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Quote:
Disclaimer (since I'm the before and after guy): What I do with my bike probably won't suit every rider. I change my oil often, about every 200 miles because my bike doesn't get ridden much, but when it does I ride it EXTREMELY hard, then put it away for a month or more. I'll change it before I put it away for the winter, then just start it up occasionally to let it get up to temp, then change it again before the first track day in the spring. I use K&N oil filters but don't change them every time.
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#8
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didn't want to call you out
Alas, us green guys always try to play it safe... safe enough to drop off your bike and take the keys with them.... |
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#9
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Hahahaha, but believe me - you're not the first, and definitely won't be the last.
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1979 Yamaha XS650 - new project 1985 Yamaha XJ700 1982 Yamaha XJ650 - SOLD!! 2003 Kawasaki ZX6- R - SOLD!! 1989 Yamaha TW200 (SOLD) |
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#10
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Quote:
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